The Paris food scene is at an interesting crossroads. The classic brasserie/bistro that many think of as the "authentic" destination, have become overpriced tourist traps. Lindsey Tramuta writes about this shift in depth in her fantastic new book The New Paris: The People, Place & Ideas Fueling a Movement. If you haven't already, I encourage you to read it.
Bistrot Paul Bert however, has been able to stay true to itself whilst weathering the changing foodscape around it. Here you can find reasonably priced, high-quality classic French faire with friendly service and a charming setting. You should know that Bistrot Paul Bert is no secret, it is on most lists for where to go for classic French bistro dishes in Paris (David Lebovitz, Le Fooding, Patricia Wells). As such you'll often find it packed with both locals and tourists. Reservations are easy to come by - but probably a good idea anyway.
"White tablecloth" french restaurants are becoming a thing of the past, even at classic French destinations like Bistrot Paul Bert.
Terrine de Poireaux au Foie Gras
I continue to be delighted by what I've traditionally thought of as unusual foie gras pairings. Here, the baby leeks provided an excellent sweet and vegetal counterbalance to the creamy foie gras mi cuit. The whole thing was encircled by dark green leek fronds which were surprisingly tender.
Apsarges Vertes et Oeuf Poché
A classic dish that was perfectly executed. The bright orange creamy egg yolk contrasted beautifully with the al dente earthy asparagus.
Salade Tiede de pousses d'Epinards, Asperge et Lardons
This gently warmed spinach salad took the day. The creamy dressing, soft lardons and warm spinach were the perfect combination in this variation of a classic French dish.
Soles, beurre citronné, Choufleur
An incredibly simple dish, these perfectly sautéed sole were light, creamy and delicious.
Entrecote, Sauce Marchand de Vin
The Entrecote (ribeye) was flavorful, tender and bleu (extra rare). The sphere of beef marrow on top was a nice touch.
Blanquette de Veau, Riz Basmati
A well executed blanquette de veau - the oft overcooked vegetables were perfectly done, and the basmati rice (while a surprising accompaniment) was an excellent vehicle to sop up the creamy sauce. It was a bit under-salted, but that was easily remedied by the bowl of fleur de sel on the table.
Fromage
This "cheese plate" was a board of cheeses brought to you table-side. Surprisingly, they left it with you for you to cut your own pieces. Seemed a bit odd given the likelihood that some American would come along and gouge out the insides of one of them leaving nothing but the rind. Maybe we got the special treatment.
Paris - Brest
A dessert I've seen on a number of brasserie and bistro menus. Can't say it was our cup of tea though. A choux based pastry filled with hazelnut cream and topped with lots of powdered sugar.
Soufflé au Grand Marnier
It's hard to put into words how delicate and custardy this soufflé is. It was by far the best sweet soufflé I've ever had and alone enough of a reason to visit Bistot Paul Bert.
If you're looking for a classic French meal in Paris, Bistrot Paul Bert is your spot. Expect nothing, more or less.
Bistrot Paul Bert
18, rue Paul-Bert
Paris
(75011)
+33 1 43 72 24 01
Nearest Metro Stops: Rue des Boulets, Faidherbe - Chaligny